浪漫丝路·千佛篇：问《库车，2021年夏》

原创 MKLA 守望中东 收录于话题#遊記 Wanderlust19个

玄奘在《大唐西域记》中提到：

屈支國，東西千餘裡，南北六百餘裡。國大都城周十七八裡，宜穈、麥，有粳稻，出蒲萄、石榴，多梨、柰、桃、杏。土產黃金、銅、鐵、鉛、錫。氣序和，風俗質。文字取則印度，粗有改變。管弦伎樂，特善諸國。服飾錦褐，斷發巾帽。貨用金錢、銀錢、小銅錢。王，屈支種也，智謀寡昧，迫于強臣。其俗生子以木押頭，欲其匾〈匚虒〉也。伽藍百余所，僧徒五千余人，習學小乘教說一切有部。經教律儀，取則印度，其習讀者，即本文矣。尚拘漸教，食雜三淨。潔清耽玩，人以功競。

To quote Xuanzang's "Record of the Western Regions":

The country of K'iu-chi is from east to west some thousand li or so; from north to south about 600 li. The capital of the realm is from 17 to 18 li in circuit. The soil is suitable for rice and corn, also (a kind of rice called) keng-t'ao; produces grapes, pomegranates, and nu- merous species of plums, pears, peaches, and almonds, also grow here. The ground is rich in minerals--gold, copper, iron, and lead, and tin. The air is soft, and the manners of the people honest. The style of writing (literature) is Indian, with some differences. They excel other countries in their skill in playing on the lute and pipe. They clothe themselves with ornamental garments of silk and embroidery. They cut their hair and wear a flowing covering (over their heads). In commerce they use gold, silver, and copper coins. The king is of the K'iu-chi race; his wisdom being small, he is ruled by a powerful minister. The children born of common parents have their heads flattened by the pressure of a wooden board.

There are about one hundred convents (sangharamas) in this country, with five thousand and more disciples. These belong to the Little Vehicle of the school of the Sarvistivadas (Shwo-yih-tsai-yu-po). Their doctrine (teaching of Sutras) and their rules of discipline (principles of the Vinaya) are like those of India, and those who read them use the same (originals). They especially hold to the customs of the "gradual doctrine," and partake only of the three pure kinds of food. They live purely, and provoke others (by their conduct) to a religious life. (Translator: Samuel Beal)

行程卡上，14天内去过上海和新疆的记录，为这次远行带来一种回家的感觉。

我坐在西安飞往库车的班机上读着玄奘的笔记，望向舷窗外的云海，不禁想：

玄奘用半年从长安走到龟兹，而喷气客机却只需在空中穿行2387公里、短短4小时，一个筋斗十万八千里的美猴王也会觉得神奇吧。

I had a strange yet familiar feeling of heading home when I was on my way back to Xinjiang, after an earlier 10-day vacation there merely a week ago.

Connecting from Xi'an to Kucha (known as Chang'an and Kucina in Tang Dynasty, 1483 miles apart) and reading Xuanzang's notes inside the plane, I couldn't help but compare my 4-hour flight with his half-year journey: Wouldn't Monkey King marvel at the jetliners?

Kumtura Caves

2021/5/30 @ 库木吐喇石窟

库木吐喇石窟，建于公元3世纪至9世纪。在现存的壁画中，最为显著的特征是以祥云图案和大乘千佛为代表的唐风绘画，以及9世纪末期在此基础上继续发展的回鹘风格。部分洞窟里，已剥落的壁画下层也能看到更早期的龟兹作品。

不仅是窟内的瑰丽壁画，石窟的选址和结构也令人惊叹。

五连洞前，渭干河从沙色的山丘中间淌过。

我注视着在烈日照射下的粼粼波光——

正午时分，同一片水在闪烁着，

但在每一刹那忽明忽暗、灭了又亮，

每一刹那我看见的也都不再是同一颗水滴——

我似乎从未如此接近我存在的错觉。

正如赵朴初先生阐释的，“好像远望中的瀑布，看上去以为是一片白布下垂那样，把极其急速而微细的迁流变化的阿赖耶识，认作是一个常住不变的“我”或叫做灵魂的存在，这是错觉。这个错觉，就是末那识。”

Built during the 3rd century and the 9th century, the Kumtura Grottoes are rich with Tang influence since the mid-8th century, such as Chinese cloud patterns and Mahayana-style thousand Buddha paintings, as well as later Uyghur developments after the late 9th century. Earlier Kuchean art also remains in some caves and can sometimes be seen underneath more recent mural layers.

The five connected grottoes have a particularly wonderful view of the rapidly flowing Muzat River. As the water surface glitters and glows in the sunshine, I suddenly have a strong feeling that nothing is constant. In every instant there is a water drop lit up and another darkened. In every instant the water drop I just saw is running forward and gone.

Just as Mr. Zhao Puchu explained it, "It would be wrong to regard the Alayavinnana flux with its rapid and subtle changes as indicating the existance of an eternal ego or soul, just as it would be wrong to take a waterfall for a piece of white cloth hanging down when seen from a distance. Actually, this misconception is Manas (ego-centered mind)." (Translator: ZHAO Tong)

Simsim Caves

2021/6/2 @ 森木塞姆石窟

所以，当僧侣们坐在石窟进行观想的时候，他们看到了什么？

他们在眺望何处？

他们究竟在寻找什么？

面对崖壁与河谷，脑海又生出许多问题，但是活跃于公元5至11世纪的森姆塞姆石窟已经缄默不言。

So what did the monks see during meditation? What were they gazing at? What were they looking for?

Thoughts like these rose to the surface of my mind when I was facing the cliffs and the valleys, but who is here to answer my questions? The Simsim Caves, active from the 5th to 11th century CE, have long fallen silent.

Subash Temple

2021/6/1 @ 苏巴什古寺

四世纪中叶，鸠摩罗什曾在这里讲经说法。三百年后，玄奘也受邀在这里驻足两个月。

又过了一千多年，我们来到这里。

荒城北四十餘裡，接山阿，隔一河水，有二伽藍，同名昭怙厘，而東西隨稱。佛像裝飾，殆越人工。僧徒清肅，誠為勤勵。東昭怙厘佛堂中有玉石，面廣二尺餘，色帶黃白，狀如海蛤。其上有佛足履之跡，長尺有八寸，廣餘六寸矣。或有齋日，照燭光明。

—— 大唐西域記 玄奘、辯機著

Kumarajiva taught here during the mid-fourth century. Xuanzang was invited to stay here for two months three hundred years later in the seventh century.

Another thousand years have passed before our arrival here.

About 40 li to the north of this desert city there are two convents close together on the slope of a mountain, but separated by a stream of water, both named Chau-hu-li, being situated east and west of one another, and accordingly so called. (Here there is) a statue of Buddha, richly adorned and carved with skill surpassing that of men. The occupants of the convents are pure and truthful, and diligent in the discharge of their duties. In (the hall of) the eastern convent, called the Buddha pavilion, there is a jade stone, with a surface of about two feet in width, and of a yellowish white colour; in shape it is like a sea-shell; on its surface is a foot trace of Buddha, 1 foot 8 inches long, and eight inches or so in breadth; at the expiration of every fast-day it emits a bright and sparkling light.

—— Xuanzang‘s Record of the Western Regions, composed by Xuanzang and Bianji (Translator: Samuel Beal)

临近黄昏，金色的斜阳为大地披上跨越时空的辉煌。

即便巍峨的塔寺已经在岁月的风雨中化作残垣断壁，我仍然萌发了希望轮回中有某一世留在这里的念想，竟不知，在宽广的龟兹与幽深的交河之间要如何取舍。

It was almost dusk. As the setting sun enveloped this ephemeral world in a time-transcending aura, the awe-inspiring ruins around us appered to be glowing in splendor again.

A sudden impulse. I wish I had lived here once in the multitudes of samsara, although the choice between the vast landscape of Kucina and the meandering lanes of Jiaohe would definitely be a hard one to make.

○ 未完待续……

或许会在下一期找到答案 To be continued

去新疆当然首先是因为好玩又好吃。

至于写在“守望中东”的缘由，则是因为在大洋彼岸选择了这个不可避免地凝视着东方的专业的8年之后，愈发觉得，如果要从中国望向中东/西亚，那也必须走一趟西行之路。而新疆，自然是通往西域的第一站。

2020年走马观花地游览了敦煌莫高窟。虽然当时的讲解员研究很深入，但可惜自己没有事先预习做好知识储备，所以也未能吸收到养分。感恩这一次老师和领队们布置的行前书单、学习手册，还有一路上的丝路电台，让这次走入龟兹石窟看到更多。

特别感谢好旅伴们，期待共同踏上新的旅途。 <3 比心 <3

原标题：《游记 | 浪漫丝路·千佛篇：问《库车，2021年夏》

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