吃下安利！歪果仁强推“郫县豆瓣” | "Pixi...

本文原标题：《吃下安利！歪果仁强推“郫县豆瓣” | "Pixian Douban", popular among foreigners》

第十五届成都国际美食节正如火如荼，这是一场属于成都的美食狂欢。撇开“成都土著”，那些远道而来的歪果仁，对成都美食又有着怎样的味觉体验？今天，小布就带你们来认识一位来自马耳他的“中国通”Victor，他正要展开一场“豆瓣体验之旅”。

The15thChengduInternationalFoodFestival,acarnivalforgourmets,isnowinfullswing.Asidefromthelocals,whataboutthefoodexperiencesofforeignersinChengdu?Let'shearfromVictor,aChinaHandfromMalta,whoisabouttoembarkona"DoubanExperienceTour".

个人简介

AbouttheAuthor

来自马耳他的Victor曾旅居六国三大洲，过去12年间，他多数时间居住在亚洲。如今，Victor常往返于欧洲和中国，并在多个国家发表旅行文章以及摄影作品。

VictorPaulBorgisfromMalta.Hehaslivedinsixcountriesonthreecontinentsandspentmuchofthepast12yearsinAsia.HecurrentlyspendshistimeinEuropeandChina.Histravelarticlesandphotographshavebeenpublishedaroundtheworld.

令人惊讶的是，被视作川菜灵魂和精华的豆瓣酱是如此简单。这种浓稠丰厚的红色酱料，口感辛辣又有层次，使各种川菜增色不少。我常常会想，什么样的异国香料才会产生这样的味道。然后我发现它实际上只包含了四种基本材料：蚕豆、红辣椒、小麦粉和水。我开始去理解一个道理：简朴成就精妙。中国其他地区也有各自的豆瓣酱，但往往是用大豆和许多其他材料做的。如今的四川豆瓣是国内外广泛认可的最好的豆瓣酱之一，尤其是产于成都西北郊区的郫县豆瓣。

Forapastethat'scelebratedasthesouloressenceofSichuancooking,thechillibeanpaste(inpinyindoubanjiang)issurprisinglysimple.Thepasteitselflooksarcanewithitsdenselysubstantialandrichreddishcolour-itspungent,texturedflavoursenhanceavarietyofdishesinSichuan-andIoftenwonderedaboutwhatexoticspicesmightaccountforsuchflavours.ThenIfoundoutthatit'sactuallyconstitutedoffourbasicingredients-broadbeans,redchillies,wheatflour,andwater-andIbegantounderstanditsparadox:simplicitymakeswonder.ForotherregionsinChinaalsohavetheirdoubanpastes,butthesetendtobeconstitutedfromsoybeansandadozenofotheringredients;onlySichuan'sdoubanismadefrombroadbeans(orfavabeans).AndyetSichuan'sdouban,especiallythedoubanmadeinPixianonthenorthwesternoutskirtsofChengdu,iswidelyconsideredinChinaandbeyondasChina'sbestdoubanjiang.

那么，要如何制作才能使它产生这样丰富的口感呢？靠的是细致的准备和长期的发酵。首先，将蚕豆剥皮、煮熟之后，晾干并拌上小麦粉，这样能够刺激某种真菌的生长，这种真菌能够使豆子在六个月的时间里充分发酵。接下来，把剁碎的新鲜辣椒、盐、水混合搅拌至黏稠状，然后至少再发酵三个月——放得更久也没关系，因为存放越久，味道越厚重。

Sowhatitisthatinfusesitwithsuchtexturedflavoursgiventhebasicnessoftheingredientsthatgoesintoitsmaking?It'sthetechnique:thefastidiouspreparationandlongfermentation.Itstartswithpeelingandboilingdriedbroadbeans,whicharethendrainedandtossedinwheatflour.Thisspursthegrowthoffungi,somethingthatcomprehensivelyfermentsthebeansoveraperiodofsixmonths.Thenfreshchilliesarechoppedandmixedintogetherwithsaltandwatertoproduceachunkyconsistency,andthemixtureisallowedtocontinuefermentingatleastforanotherthreemonths.Itcanevenbeagedforlonger-thelongeritsage,themoreprofoundtheflavours.

但这并不是全部，天气也是其中一个因素。郫县豆瓣被认为是品质最优的豆瓣酱，得益于当地的气候，以及岷山的水、长期潮湿阴冷的气候条件、高湿度——这一切都有利于郫县豆瓣更好地发酵。

Butthat'snotthewholestory.Theclimatealsolendsahand.AndthereasonwhyPixian'sdoubanisconsideredthebestisthankstothemicro-climate.MakinguseofthefreshwatercoursingoutoftheMinMountains,andhavingtheworkswithintheprevailingmoistandovercastconditionsandhighatmospherichumidity-allofthesearesaidtocontributetosuperiorfermentationprocessinPixian.

郫县豆瓣的制作者在几百年间不断完善技术流程。他们将豆瓣装在大陶罐里，盖上塑料盖，放在院子里发酵。许多厂商还要天天搅拌每一罐豆瓣酱，使其充分接触空气，促进发酵，使不同层次的味道融入豆瓣酱中。

MakersofdoubaninPixianhaveperfectedthetechniqueprocessoverhundredsofyears.Theyfermentthedoubaninlargeearthenwarejarscoveredbyplasticlids;theseareplacedinyardsamidsttheelements(hencetheplasticlids).Manyofthemanufacturersgothroughtherigmaroleofmixingthefermentingpasteineachcrockeveryday-thisaeratesthemixture,enhancingthefermentation,andblendstheflavourswithindifferentstrataofthepasteinthejars.

你可以去郫都区一日游，参观豆瓣酱的制作过程。郫都区距成都市中心车程不到两小时，可以乘坐地铁然后转乘出租。参观郫县豆瓣的制作过程的最佳地点，就在川菜博物馆。这里占地广阔，还有很多有趣的景点：一所展示川菜发展相关手工艺品的博物馆,一座古老的寺庙,一个制作、发酵豆瓣酱的大院子,一处中式古典园林,和一家有开放式厨房的餐馆。

Youcanseethedoubanbeingmadeonaday-triptoPixian(ittakeslessthan1hourtogettoPixianfromcentralChengdu,travellingonsubwayandthentaxi).AndthemostaccessibleplaceinPixianwhereyoucanseethedoubanbeingmade,isattheMuseumofSichuanCuisine.Thisisasprawlingsitethatholdsseveralinterestingattractionswithinitsgrounds:amuseumwithartifactsassociatedwiththedevelopmentofcookinginSichuan,anoldtemple,alargeyardwheredoubanismadeandlefttofermentindozensofearthenwarejars,agardenintraditionalChinesestyle,andarestaurantwithanopenkitchen.

而这一开放式厨房的看点在于观看菜品的准备过程，尤其是那些使用了豆瓣酱的菜品的烹饪技巧。这里的厨房不是指字面上的开放，而是整个厨房处于玻璃隔间内！如果是开放式的，那么大火爆炒豆瓣和辣椒产生的油烟将到处弥漫。豆瓣酱主要用于炒菜，其次是炖菜；它能丰富爆炒菜品的味道。在家里，我最喜欢的菜肴之一就是加了两勺豆瓣酱的辣炒莲白。用大火炒菜，首先要将豆瓣放进热油爆香，然后根据烹饪时间依次放入其它材料。据说40%到60%左右的川菜都要放豆瓣。

Thepointoftheopenkitchenattherestaurant-thekitchenisnotliterallyopen,it'senclosedwithinglasspartitions;ifithadtobeopenthefumesfromfryingthedoubanandchilliesonhighflamewouldbeoverpowering-istoseehowdishesareprepared,particularlythecookingtechniquesinthedisheswhichfeaturedouban.Itismostlyusedinstir-fries(famously,itisusedinmapodoufuforexample),lesscommonlyinstews,anditcangivesimplestir-friesadepthoftexturedtastes.Athome,oneofmyfavoritedishesischoppedcabbagestir-friedinatwospoonfulsofPixiandouban.Instir-fries,thedoubanistossedinhotoilinthewok,andthentheotheringredientscookedinstages,dependingoncookingtimes.Itissaidthatdoubanisusedin40to60percentofSichuandishes.

今天，超市里能找到各种各样的辣豆瓣酱。它们通常都添加了许多香料来提味，也会放炸牛肉屑、炒芝麻、干虾米等材料；其中许多还会再放辣椒油作进一步调味。虽然这些酱料丰富了厨房里的选择，但没有什么能比得过真正的郫县豆瓣所带来的四川风味。

Nowadaysmanyothertypesofchillibeanpastearefoundinsupermarkets.Theseusuallyfeaturearangeofspicesthatareaddedtoenhancetastes,aswellasotheringredientssuchasdeep-friedsliversofbeefandroastedsesameseedsanddriedbabyprawns;manyofthesearefurtherflavouredwithchillioil.Andalthoughthesecanaddvarietytoakitchen,nothingbeatstheauthenticPixiandoubanforatruetasteofSichuan.

川菜博物馆位于郫都区古城镇荣华北巷8号（郫彭大道上，彭州以南9公里）。

电话：028-87918008,028-87919399

网址：www.cdccbwg.com

TheMuseumofSichuanCuisine(alsoknownasChuancaisMuseum)isat8RonghuaNorthRoad,GuchengTown,PixianCounty(it'sonthemainroadbetweenPixiantoPengzhou,only9kmsouthofPengzhou).

Tel:028-87918008,028-87919399

Website:www.cdccbwg.com

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摘自《HELLOChengdu》杂志

Excerptedfrom HELLOChengdu magazine

撰稿|Victor

ByVictor

编辑|雕刻时光

EditedbyJ.Tarkovsky

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