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游记 | 在皑皑白雪中沉睡的番红花城

2020-07-01 15:02

来源：澎湃新闻·澎湃号·湃客

原创 MKLA 守望中东来自专辑遊記 Wanderlust

2016/1/4-6 @ 番红花城

背对着朝阳，坐上长途客车，5个小时，在安卡拉换乘，3个小时，驶入番红花城的薄暮。

看上去小巧玲珑的黄色菲亚特出租车，竟然也顺利地装下了我们近一个月来的行装，爬上结冰湿滑的陡坡。

叩开一栋老宅，暖黄色的灯光驱散了夜色中的寒意。

We turned our back from the rising sun and boarded a westbound bus. Five-hours, connect in Ankara. Three hours, Safranbolu. Hop off-- an early dusk.

With astonishing horsepower, a yellow Fiat cab carried us and six suitcases up a slippery, icy slope and brought us in front of a traditional Ottoman house.

优雅的大叔和阿姨在家中忙碌着——木质的桌椅，有着精致蕾丝镶边的白色窗帘、靠枕、杯垫，还有可能是从花瓶或者墙纸中散发出来的、宁静平和的淡淡香气。

Knock knock. Warm yellow light poured out from the opening door, dispersing the cool evening air.

An elegant elderly couple welcomed us inside. Wooden cupboards, wooden desks, and wooden chairs, with curtains, cushions, and coasters of delicate pure white lace. A mysterious yet soothing scent surrounded us. Whether it came from the bouquets or the vintage wallpaper, I did not know and no longer cared. I was melting in the ambiance of home.

他们的儿子大概也已经三十多岁，动画人物似的倒三角身形，却因为个子太高有些弓背，加上粗粗的眉毛和身上的高领毛衣、黑色紧身长裤，像极了神偷奶爸格鲁先生。

每天吃早餐的时候我一直不敢与他对视，生怕不礼貌地笑出声来。

Their son was in his thirties. He had broad shoulders, long legs, and a pair of surprisingly small feet. With the thick brows and turtleneck sweater... he very much looked like Mr. Gru in Despicable Me. I tried my best to avoid eye contact with him for fear that I might burst into laughter, which would be very impolite.

推开房门，辟邪的蓝色眼睛在院中叮当作响。

我们走在古城寂静的街道上。

The evil eyes were tinkling as we walked into the courtyard. The city was otherwise silent.

从13世纪到20世纪初，在火车的汽笛声响彻安纳托利亚之前，番红花城一直都是东西商路上的重要驿站。在17世纪的鼎盛时期，这里的建筑甚至成为了奥斯曼帝国的城镇规划样板。

From the 13th century up to the beginning of the 20th century, before the train horns of modernization sounded across Anatolia, Safranbolu had been a key stop along the East-West trade route. During its apogee in the 17th century, its architecture set the standard for urban development in much of the Ottoman Empire.

只是，这个冬天，没有车马，也没有如织的游人。

不知多久前的雪，一层层堆积在赭红色的屋顶。我们在小巷中留下崭新的脚印，仿佛闯入了定格的历史。

This winter, however, there were no caravans, nor teeming tourists. Layers of snow had piled up on the maroon roofs. And on the silent paths, our footprints were the only proof of life.

皮鞋店、纪念品商店、上过当地杂志的铜艺店，一扇扇门背后的故事，今天，沉默不语。

Shoe stores, souvenir stores, and the coppersmith that was once featured in a local magazine were all blanketed in a thick stillness.

鼓起勇气，走入一家似乎正在营业的餐厅。一壶茶，在火炉上咕嘟咕嘟地温着，然后和几片番红花瓣一起，为玻璃杯盏注入灵魂。面前升起袅袅热气。饮下，甘甜的清泉由内而外地温暖了全身，从心脏到指尖。（后来才知道，生命之水的交换代价是四块方糖。）

即便是比往年更加冷清的淡季，老爷爷老奶奶还是不断地包着饺子打发时间。几口茶的功夫，便又整整齐齐地排满了一块案板。作为唯一一桌顾客的我们，也有幸得到了土耳其饺子技艺的真传。

Some shops still had the "opening" sign displayed at the window, but the interior was dark with no light on, even on such a sunless day. It took us much courage to venture through an unlocked door.

A pot of saffron tea was simmering on an antique cast iron stove-- O sweet and aromatic aqua vitae. A puff of cloud gathered and breathed life into the empty glass vessel, and when I drank it, I felt that streams of warm energy were flowing into my heart and fingertips, refreshing, revitalizing. (I only knew later on that the price to produce this elixir is four sugar cubes, as per the Law of Equivalent Exchange.)

The exceptionally bleak off-season did not stop the grey-haired restaurant owners from making more and more dumplings. "For lunch, for dinner, or just for fun," to quote the granny. As the only customer in the morning, we were privileged to learn the authentic way of making "manti."

▲ （中间）时隔两年的作品，土耳其饺子加老干妈酸奶酱 (Middle) The manti I made two years later -- with Laoganma chili oil and Greek yogurt sauce

在城市中穿行，时常会与屹立在主干道交汇处的辛西公共浴室不期而遇。

The only public bath in Safranbolu, Cinci Hamami, has been standing at the main crossroad since the 1640s.

建造者胡赛因先生生于番红花城，以巫术出名，人称“精灵校长”(辛西霍加)。

克塞姆皇太后曾召他入宫，顺利地治好了伊卜拉欣苏丹不近女色的毛病，顺便缓解了苏丹头痛的顽疾。从此，辛西平步青云、富可敌国，甚至到了可以干涉朝政、左右宰相生死的程度。1643年，辛西任加拉塔法官。1644年，辛西联合克塞姆皇太后说服伊卜拉欣苏丹处死现任宰相。同年，任安纳托利亚普通和军事大法官。

Known as "Headmaster of Jinns" (Cinci Hoca), Hüseyin Efendi was a famous witchdoctor born in Safranbolu and was invited by Valide Sultan Kösem to keep İbrahim Sultan in the Harem. Cinci Hoca also alleviated Ibrahim Sultan's headache. As a result, he soon gained trust from the sultan and the powerful royal mother. Cinci Hoca was appointed the kadı of Galata in 1643 and in 1644 as the kazasker of Anatolia. Also in 1644, he and Kösem Sultan persuaded İbrahim Sultan to execute the grand vizier Kemankeş Mustafa Pasha.

当然，在帝国的权力中心，荣华的巅峰大多转瞬即逝。

1648年8月8日，禁卫军在伊斯兰宗教贵族的支持下发动政变。18日，伊卜拉欣苏丹被勒死在托卡比皇宫，在位8年，年仅32岁。

作为前朝宠臣，辛西被没收了全部财产，流放大马士革，途中遭处决。

Whether in empires or modern states, it is almost impossible to stay forever at the epicenter of power struggle. And the days of unparalleled prominence was particularly short for Cinci Hoca.

On August 8, 1648, the janissaries revolted with the support of the ulema and overthrew İbrahim Sultan. Ten days later, on August 18, 1648, İbrahim Sultan was strangled in Topkapı Palace, at the age of 32.

Cinci Hoca found no escape from his fate, either. As the man favored by the dethroned Sultan, Cinci Hoca was exiled to Damascus after all his life's wealth was confiscated. He was killed on the way.

不曾想，某南方人此生第一次享受搓澡服务竟然是在400年历史的土耳其大浴场。倒也不怕那无数人穿行过的团团迷雾，只记得大娘们健壮的手臂，和刀俎鱼肉之痛。

Never had I imagined that I would enjoy my first scrub service at a 400-year old Ottoman public bath. The mist of ghosts in the hot room, though, was far less daunting than the muscular female attendants in the adjoining scrub room. Lying on the cool stainless-steel slab, I felt as helpless as a salmon put on a sashimi cutting board.

回到仍然在白雪下沉睡的世界，抬头望去——

Back to the snow-covered city. Looking up-- a slim minaret stood against the colorless sky.

伊泽特穆罕默德帕夏，1743年生于番红花城。1787至1794年间，曾先后赴任吉达地区、伯罗奔尼撒地区、埃及地区长官。

1794年10月19日，萨利姆三世将他封为大宰相。同年，伊泽特穆罕默德帕夏在故乡兴建清真寺，历时四年。

然而，就在清真寺落成的这一年，1798年8月30日，伊泽特穆罕默德帕夏突然遭到贬谪，流放爱琴海岛屿。又过四年，1812年9月19日，客死他乡，离家500公里。

Izzet Mehmet Pasha was born in 1793 in Safranbolu. He had served as the Ottoman governor of Jeddah (1787-90), Morea (1790-91), and Egypt (1791-94). On October 19, 1794, he was appointed grand vizier by Sultan Selim III.

He started building the Izzet Mehmet Pasha Mosque in the same year in Safranbolu. However, just about the time the mosque was completed, Izzet Mehmet Pasha was exiled on August 30, 1798 to Chios, an Aegean Sea island now in Greece. He passed away four years later on September 19, 1812. He was 500 kilometers away from home.

▲ 又或许他从未离开。Perhaps he never left.

幕间休息：一则爱情故事

Interlude: puppy love.

蜿蜒向上，在寻访博物馆的路途中，有一头拉不拉猪常伴左右，我们亲切地将他称为“小胖子”。

小胖子似乎是有心上狗的。几个街口，偶尔会有眉清目秀的狗妹妹闪现，和小胖子嬉戏一番，又莞尔消失在小巷的拐角。

As we walked along the meandering lanes toward the hilltop city museum, a pot-bellied Labrador mix accompanied us as a silent but highly enthusiastic guide. We called him "Chubby."

Chubby seemed to have a girlfriend. A female dog with fine and delicate features would wait for him at some intersections and play some little games with him, before disappearing into some mysterious corners.

也不知是小胖子的爱情结束得太快，还是我们看到的只是狗生漫长青春的一个片段。

日落时分，健壮的黑毛村霸领着一帮长相凶恶的打手拦住了这对神仙眷侣。

小胖子也咆哮过、低吼过，甚至想过拼死一战。但奈何对方狗多势众，几个回合的对峙后，小胖子踌躇再三，终于在村霸打手们呲牙咧嘴的威胁中停下了脚步。

狗妹妹回眸一瞥，融入了村霸的狗群。

薄暮织成的面纱遮住了她小鹿般的脸庞，我们再也无法辨认她的去向。

Puppy love comes and goes like a whirlwind, they say. Or perhaps what we saw was but an unremarkable chapter in a dog's youth, which is relatively longer than that of human beings.

Around sunset, a strong black-haired dog suddenly jumped into our way with a vicious gang. Their target was Chubby-- well, Chubby's girlfriend, to be precise.

Of course, our brave Chubby had tried barking and growling and even thought about risking his life for the sake of love, but there were just too many of them. Chubby hesitated. He finally slowed down and stopped a few meters short of the snarling bullies.

His ex-girlfriend gave him one last glance.

The veil of twilight descended and hid her deerlike face from our inquiring eyes. She joined the black dog's pack. Gone.

小胖子落寞的背影在下坡路上越来越小，渐渐模糊。

The lonely figure of Chubby became smaller and smaller down the slope, finally turning into an unrecognizable dot.

▲ 傻狗 Poor doggy

我们试图前往距离番红花城驱车仅15分钟的土耳其第四大钟乳石洞。布拉克溶洞全长超过6公里，除了对普通游客开放的400米游览步道之外，还有需要滑索、划船才能完成的6小时高阶探险。

第一次，大雪封山，菲亚特也只能在无法战胜的陡坡前折返。

第二天，听闻冰雪消融，我们再次进发。只是，相比终于得见的、橙黄色灯光下的黄褐色石笋，沿途无法接近的峡谷似乎又更诱人一些。大约美景总是在深处。

Bulak Mencilis Cave is over 6 kilometers in length and ranks as the fourth largest cave in Turkey. A 400-meter section is open to common visitors, while the rest is reserved for experienced cavers to explore with ziplines and boats.

Even the tourist zone was hardly accessible in the snowy winter. The first time we headed for the cave, our Fiat cab had to make a U-turn in front of the steep icy slope. We tried again on the second day, hearing that the road had undergone some winter maintenance. We made it this time-- but comparing with the brown stalagmite and stalactite formations in orange-yellow lights, the unapproachable bottom of the valley somehow appeared more enticing now. Perhaps the best views are always waiting in the farther and deeper ends.

水道桥。

通往远山的林海。黑色的波涛无声地翻滚着，掀起点点白沫。

The aqueduct led our souls to the other side of the gorge, where tides of black forests were billowing with white foam, in suffocating silence.

长116米，宽110-120厘米，建于拜占庭时期，1790年代由伊泽特穆罕默德帕夏斥资修葺。

尽管撑起这六道优美圆拱的人早已不在，这座宏伟的桥梁至今屹立在托卡特峡谷之上，作为奥斯曼时代最重要的建筑遗产之一，承载着纷纷落下的一点一滴。

İncekaya ('thin rock') Water Bridge was originally built during the Byzantine years and restored by Izzet Mehmet Pasha in the 1790s. It is 116 meters long, 110-120 centimeters wide, and has six graceful arches. Although the people who built it had long gone, the magnificent structure continues to sit over the Tokatlı Canyon as one of the most important Ottoman-era remnants.

▲ 一张明信片，寄给未曾谋面的你 A postcard for you, my unacquainted friends

后记：

2015年，对于土耳其来说，是不平静的一年。

从东边的叙利亚和伊拉克边境，到西边的旅游景点，ISIS、土耳其境内的激进库尔德组织、极端左翼，在尚不明朗的局势中制造了大大小小的多起袭击事件。其中包括——1月6日，圣索菲亚博物馆和蓝色清真寺周边的警署门口发生爆炸，袭击者死亡，两名警察受伤。10月10日，安卡拉的和平集会遭到自杀式炸弹袭击，导致109名平民死亡，500人受伤，是现代土耳其最致命的恐怖袭击。12月23日，伊斯坦布尔亚洲侧的萨比哈·格克琴国际机场发生一场小型爆炸，一名清洁工丧生……

旅游业因此遭到重创，在本就是淡季的阴冷的日子里，街道变得更为寂寥。

Epilogue:

2015 was an eventful year for Turkey. From the eastern borders with Syria and Iraq, to the tourist sites in the western corner, perpetrators from ISIS, domestic Kurdish radical groups, and left-wing extremist parties produced numerous attacks across the country to advance their agendas. The most notorious ones include-- One July 6, a female suicide bomber killed herself and injured two others at a police station in Istanbul's central Sultanahmet district, near the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. On October 10, two suicide bombings were detonated outside Ankara Central Railway Station, killing 109 civilians and injuring 500 people. It was the deadliest attack in modern Turkey. On December 23, a minor blast occurred at the Sabiha Gökçen Airport and killed one cleaning worker.

Tourism suffered as a result. In the freezing off-season, the streets became more lonesome than ever.

但土耳其的魅力、东西方文明的长期碰撞与交融，终究是令人难以抗拒。旅程的末尾，我们把行李寄存在机场，又乘电车返回市区，再看一眼这迷人的伊斯坦布尔。

But the charms of Turkey, the clashes and fusion of Eastern and Western civilizations were too fascinating to resist. At the end of our journey, we stored our luggage at the airport and spent a few more hours in downtown Istanbul.

有机会的话，路过伊斯坦布尔喝一杯咖啡吧。

If chance takes you to Istanbul, whether by planned trips or connecting flights, sit down, have a sip of coffee, and enjoy people watching.

冬天也是好时节。 ■

Wintertime is nevertheless a good time, isn't it?